Besides chaps, a vest is the next most important piece of leather gear to have. Vests are versatile, simple, and add an enhancement for the Leatherman’s overall visual image.

Here is the snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear about vests:

A good leather vest is a fundamental leather item that you should own. There are plenty of styles to choose from, but your best bet here is to get a leather “bar” vest. However, if your figure is more “bearish” like mine, you may do better with a “biker” vest. If you join a club, a biker vest is easier to put patches and run pins on than a bar vest (there’s more room.)

Features to look for:

Style: A leather bar vest is a simple, masculine design, meant to show your chest. A good bar vest will typically cost US$75-$100. You want to make sure the fit is tight. It should not hang over your chest, but rather to the sides of it.

Other Vests: A biker vest looks like a standard biker jacket without sleeves. Biker vests should hang over your shoulders and not pucker around the sides. Many are adjustable using side laces. If you want to show a little of your chest, consider getting a smaller vest but also vest extenders, which allow the vest to be open but still held across your front. You really don’t want to wear a biker vest snapped completely closed. It just doesn’t look right unless you’re actually on a motorcycle.

Over the years, I have seen many different types of vests. What works best for one person may be different for another guy. A bar vest without a shirt looks better on a man with a well-developed chest. Biker vests are usually always worn with a shirt. I wear mine over my long-sleeved leather shirt sometimes, too.

Generally, vests should be worn open, casually draped over the chest. However, if you wear a vest for a functional purpose such as to provide warmth while riding a motorcycle, make sure it fits you well so when you close it, it does not pucker around the arm openings. Alternatively, a vest that looks good across your chest but would look weird closed may be held together by vest extenders, which are small chains or thick leather strips that attach to snaps. I realized while writing this post that I do not have a good picture of one of my vests with extenders, so that’s next on my list to update.

Tomorrow’s post gets into jackets, the next essential for a Leatherman.

Anyone who likes leather, or is a biker, or who just wants something to add some warmth and protection for his legs needs a pair of chaps.

Chaps are about the most practical leather item available, and useful for many purposes. Here is the section from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear about chaps:

Many guys who advise others about leather say that chaps should be your first major purchase. Chaps are the most versatile piece of leather you will own. They are great for wearing out to a leather bar, while riding on a motorcycle, and for sex. You can put them on and take them off quickly, and they stand up to a lot of punishment. Chaps show a serious interest in leather, and they convey that message to others.

A good pair of leather chaps will cost you $200 minimum. They will be fairly functional and usually have a snap front closure with rawhide strings in the back for adjustment. A great pair of chaps will probably run you about $400. “Great” chaps have pockets on the front, are made of thick top-grain leather, and are made custom to your size, so there is usually one solid band of leather across the back (instead of rawhide strings holding grommeted ends together) and a quality, adjustable closure on the front. Do NOT buy a $79-$99 pair of chaps. You’ll regret it. They’re paper thin, often made of cowhide splits (not top grain leather), and often are pieced rather than made of one solid hide. Cheap chaps are pretty much worthless.

Features to look for

The Fit: Go to a quality leather store and try on a pair or two. If you’re not sure what you’re doing, the salesperson will help you put them on. Wear the jeans you may wear with them so you get a proper fit. And let the leathermaker do alterations so they fit you right. (i.e. length and adjust the waistbelt if necessary). Minor alterations shouldn’t cost more than about $20-$30.

Weight/Thickness: The thicker the leather, the better. You want a heavy weight leather. It looks 100% better. And you don’t want cheap looking chaps. Leather that is in the range of 7 to 8 oz. is best.

Zipper Position: If you ride a motorcycle, you want the zipper on the outside (so it won’t scratch your tank). Otherwise, a zip on the inside is fine.

Chaps to Avoid: Don’t buy chaps made of anything except real leather. Chaps made of “pleather,” or other materials like “neoprene” may look good from a distance in a dark bar, but if a guy shows an interest in you and then feels the fake quality of what you have on your legs, he may back off quickly. If you’re serious about leather, then wear leather, not imitation by-products of the oil industry.

I mentioned in my “Going Custom” blog post that chaps were the first piece of leather gear I ever bought, and for good reason. Lots of guys who ride motorcycles wear them, so they are quite common in many circles. If you are getting into leather, chaps are an essential starter item. I learned that having chaps made to fit custom was best, because they looked good, did not pucker around the hips and thighs, had no annoying snaps on the leg openings, and had a quality closure. I also can attest that chaps are great for more private enjoyment of leather, as well. And another good thing to know about chaps is that they are very forgiving in that they are easily adjustable to change fitting should you gain weight as you age. A pair of chaps I got at age 25 still fit me now when I’m double that age and a bit larger than I was back then.

Chaps are so versatile and so enjoyable, I have seven pairs of chaps that I have acquired over time. To be honest, I still wear each pair (though not all at the same time LOL!). If you are interested in leather and you don’t have chaps yet, then have a friend measure you, go to a fetish leather store (or visit the store’s website), and order yourself a pair made custom to your size. I’m sure you will enjoy them for many years to come.

Check back tomorrow: more on individual leather gear with some of my opinions thrown in, too.

Since custom leather gear is the way to go, the best place to get it is from a store that specializes in crafting it, fitting it correctly, and having sources of good skins. These days, many of the good leather crafters have websites to help you in deciding what you want and can facilitate placing an order electronically. However, using the Internet to buy custom gear has its challenges too. Read on for more.

Here is the snippet from my “Leather 101” page on my website about this topic:

If you are nervous about going into a leather fetish store, don’t worry about it. These shops are in business to sell leather. I remember the first time I went into one of those stores (in San Francisco), my heart was beating a mile-a-minute. However, I soon got over my fear of the unknown. The staff were helpful and friendly, but not pushy. They don’t want to scare you off. The best places to go are fetish leather shops or motorcycle leather shops. Go to a store that specifically sells leather, preferably one that makes its own products on premises. Look around, see what catches your eye, then ask questions and let someone help you.

Do not go to a motorcycle retailer like a Harley-Davidson dealer. While the majority of Harley-Davidson’s income is from sales of its licensed products and leather goods (not from selling the motorcycles themselves), H-D labeled leathers are vastly overpriced just for the name. You can get custom leather gear at lower prices from fetish leather stores. Also, don’t go to stores in the mall that sell some leather goods. These stores sell off-the-rack stuff for the masses, and are more “fashion” oriented than having anything worthy of a true Leatherman.

Despite being tempted by lower prices, DON’T buy leather gear from websites that cater to straight bikers. Most of the gear found on these websites is almost “one-size fits all” and looks like it. The gear hangs funny on everyone except the handsome model in a tough-looking pose. Pants, chaps, and long-sleeves of leather shirts are often too long or too short, requiring alteration anyway, and the leather is from a country where quality is doubtful. This is particularly true about International Male, Jamin’ Leather, and LeatherUp.com. Believe me, I have purchased leather from each of these on-line retailers, and have been very disappointed each time. (Once, each; never again!)

Don’t buy fetish leather via eBay for your first foray into leather gear. Remember, items on eBay belonged to someone else. Leather gear stretches to accommodate the (former) wearer’s body. Just because you are a size 34 and the eBay posting says the leather pants are a size 34, it does not mean they will fit you. They could be larger just from natural stretching. They could be (and often are) baggy in the seat and thighs. The problem with eBay is that seldom can you return something if it doesn’t fit right. Leather gear needs to fit right, or it’s not worth the investment. I’m not saying that you should never buy from eBay. Just know that you may not get something that fits well and you are stuck with an “as is” sale. Also, used gear is used gear. Don’t pay more than half of what the item new would cost. It’s not worth it (provided you don’t have a fetish for some other guy’s used gear. If the smell of used gear gets you off, then forget this warning).

However, you say, “I live far away from a store that specializes in crafting and selling fetish leather.” (Or I’ve heard, “I don’t want my wife/parents to find out about my fetish interests.”) “Can I use the Internet?” Well, you can, with care and a thoughtful plan.

The rest of this section is written about buying new leather gear from a reputable fetish leather merchant via the web. I have some of the stores that I have visited and ordered from listed here on my website.

People have asked me what fetish leather stores I recommend. While there are some really good stores around, in the past few years I have settled on 665Leather of West Hollywood, California, and Northbound Leather of Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Back in the day, I bought most of my custom leather gear from Mr. S. in San Francisco, and they still have good stuff, but it is very pricey. They also seem to be more interested in selling toys (that scare the bejeebers out of me!) than leather nowadays.

Tomorrow: I begin my gear-item by gear-item description of what to look for. Check back!

I have a lot of leather gear that I have acquired over the past 25 years or so. Like any other biker, I began to buy leather to use while riding my motorcycle. I bought my first leather gear items (chaps, jacket, and vest) off-the-rack. That was in the days before the Internet. I got these first items from a local motorcycle shop. None of that gear fit me all that well, but I didn’t know how to get a good fit, and the guys in the shop were not knowledgeable about fitting leather, either. The gear was sold in generic sizes of S-M-L-XL. That was that.

My first custom gear was a pair of chaps from “The Leathermaker” of Los Angeles, California. I saw an ad that he ran in a magazine and the chaps looked really hot. They had outside zippers and a custom fitted closure. I wrote (a letter) to him and received a measuring form back with some more really hot photos. I asked a friend to measure me, and I sent off my payment with the order form all filled out. About a month later, the chaps arrived. Man, I was in heaven! The fit was perfect, the look outstanding, and the style was unique.

This proved to me that going custom was what I needed to do. No more silly snaps on the bottom of the leg opening. No more zippers on the inside that would scratch the paint on my bike. No more adjustments like a belt buckle on the front closure.

After that, I had my first business trip to San Francisco. I built up the courage to go into a fetish leather store and after I found out that the guys in there were only interested in selling leather and not (doing anything else to me), I had them measure me and retain all of my measurements, even if this time I was only ordering a custom long-sleeved leather shirt. A few months later, I had them make me a pair of leather pants, since they had my measurements.

Man, I felt like I had arrived! I had my leather chaps, pants, and shirt, and felt more confident in myself as a person and no longer a leather novice. And I got noticed, too. Guys could tell that I had quality gear, so perhaps they thought that there might be a quality guy inside.

Though I wasn’t really one to go out to bars (I just never was a late-night kinda guy), I met some really interesting guys for dates when I was out in full leather on my motorcycle. I had fun exploring leather and getting more gear through the years. In fact, walking with “the leather contingent” in the March on Washington in 1993 was when and where I met my partner. The rest is history — never dated another guy. Nowadays, I still wear my custom gear when I ride my Harley; around and in the community during fall, winter, and spring — just because I like how it feels and I’m way beyond caring what other people think; and when my partner and I have a little fun. It has a lot of uses!

One word if you are just starting out: custom gear isn’t cheap, but because it will fit you right, you will be able to wear it for a long time. Consider it an investment. As such, if you are only going to wear leather once a year to a leather event, don’t bother with it. The once-a-year-in-leather dudes have that “deer-in-the-headlights” look and it’s obvious they are uncomfortable in it. In order to get a return on your investment, wear it often and proudly. I do.

Here is today’s snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear.

Custom leathers are really the way to go. Not only will the leather fit you better, it looks better. You will not have unsightly snaps or zippers that are found on off-the-rack, cheaper leather goods, made to fit anyone of any size and height. Custom leather gear often is not much more expensive than off-the-rack, provided you are getting quality, top-grain leather. If you order the cheap stuff from the usual biker’s leather retailers, it will be obvious and gives a signal that perhaps you don’t want to give — that you’re cheap. Certain items like leather breeches or leather uniform shirts should always be custom made. Chaps should be custom, or at least altered to fit, else they will be baggy in the wrong places, too short, or too long.

Here’s how to do measurements for custom gear. There is a form on my website to help you record what you need to know. At a minimum, have your waist, inseam, thighs, chest, neck, and length of arms measured. There are more measurements that may be needed, so check out that form!

Have someone else do the measurements. Never measure yourself, because you just can’t get a tape correctly around yourself to get an accurate measurement, no matter how careful you think you can be.

Ensure the tape is pulled ‘snugly’. Do not allow ‘extra’ in the measurements around the parts of your body, because inevitably the measurement will not be accurate. Also, leather stretches naturally, so if the leather is tight when you first get it, it will accommodate by stretching as it breaks in during regular wear. Do not assume that the size you wear for a pair of jeans is the same for a pair of leather jeans, or a shirt size is the same for a leather shirt. Generally those bluejeans or shirt sizes are not your actual measurements.

Tomorrow: where to buy custom gear. Remember now, life is short: wear your boots and leather!

Leather seems to be a mystery to some. This series of posts about leather gear is designed to demystify leather and encourage those who are curious to explore their interests. Today’s post is about leather itself: how to know quality from junk, how where it comes from makes a difference, and to help educate you about what to get so you know what you’re getting. All of this comes from my Complete Guide to Leather, which I just published on my website. I give credit to Mr. John Pendal (Mr. International Leather 2003) and GlovedCopSF for some of the content from material they have previously written and which I adapted for my guide to leather gear.

• No two hides are the same. It may seem an obvious point, but all leather was once a living animal. Each hide is a different size and shape and has different flaws: scratches, blemishes, insect bites, etc. A good leather manufacturer will cut around these imperfections (or disguise them within the body of the product), but that increases manufacturing time and scrap (waste). “Clear” (unblemished) leather is much more expensive than leather that reveals some flaws. The question you should ask yourself is how badly the flaws show, and if the blemishes add character to the product or are unsightly eyesores.
• Leather varies in thickness. Leather thickness is usually measured in ounces. One ounce equals 1/64 inch in thickness. Thus, a weight of 7 to 8 oz. means the leather is 7/64 to 8/64 inches in thickness or approximately 1/8 inch thick. The thickness of leather varies to some extent throughout the hide. This is why leathers are usually shown with a range of thickness such as 4 to 5 oz., or 6 to 7 oz. As a comparison, a quarter (coin) is equal to a 4 oz. thickness. A standard thickness for belts is a 7 to 8 oz leather.
• One good indicator of the quality of a leather garment is thickness of the leather. Thicker leather provides more protection and durability. But it is also heavier, which is not always a preferred characteristic.
• Several types of leather are used in crafting leather garments: cowhide, deer hide, boar hide, kangaroo, etc. Of these, cow hide is predominant. Cowhide is strong. It wears well. It is less expensive than other leathers. Considering its price and performance, this is perhaps the best material in existence.
• A green (untanned) cowhide is thick so it is usually split into two layers before tanning. “Top leather” shows the grain of the outer skin, and it is the toughest of the two layers. The “split” layer is the bottom, fleshy side, and it tans with a smooth or suede finish. This “split” is tough in its own right, and being less expensive than top leather, it constitutes a very good per-dollar value. Its main drawback is its tendency to abrade, owing to its smooth surface.
• Hides can come from all over the world: The price of hides varies greatly from one country to another. If your leather manufacturer cares how the animals were treated or which chemicals were used in the tanning process, they are likely to choose hides that come with some welfare and quality guarantees, which increases the price.
• Hides stretch by different amounts: The neck end of the hide stretches more than the rear – so a good manufacturer will make sure that they lay the pattern symmetrically over the hide. Trouser legs and the backs of shirts could be cut from the back end of the hide where they will stretch less, and cuffs and collars from the neck end. However, this also creates more scrap (waste) which increases the price.
• Tanning process: The average thickness of a tanned cowhide is 5mm. This is too thick for most uses, so the hide is divided into a “grained” hide and one or two “splits”. The splits are put through rollers to emboss a fake grain on them, but are lower quality and so are usually used for furniture and car upholstery. If the “grained” hide has excessive scarring or marks it might be buffed smooth and embossed with a fake grain. This will allow the whole hide to be used for clothing, but should also lower the price. Look closely at the leather you are about to buy. If you can see tiny hair holes the leather has probably been aniline tanned and is a “grained” hide. This is the highest quality leather you can buy. If you can’t see any hair holes the hide might be a “split”, or have been buffed smooth or had a pigment coating. These kinds of leather are often shinier and less able to absorb oil-based leather care products. This is not necessarily a bad thing: one of the qualities of aniline tanned leather is that the dye can rub off, especially next to hot and sweaty skin, so even top quality leather manufacturers may use chrome tanned leather to make jockstraps, for instance.
• Check the finishing touches: There are steps a leather artisan would take to finish a product that are easily skipped to save money. For example, when thick leather is cut for a belt or sling, a craftsman might bevel the edges of the leather and then polish the cut edge with a piece of bone to prolong the life of the product. Sometimes you will see edges that look as if they’ve been cut with no further work done.

Tomorrow: why custom leather gear is the way to go if you’re serious about leather.

The title of this post brings back memories from a long time ago, when I bought a certain type of magazine for the first time. The full title was: Leather in August? No Sweat!

Well, I can’t say the same is true for me. Leather is great, don’t get me wrong. But when it is hot and humid outside, leather just isn’t something I can wear for more than posing for a few pics to update my website. (For example, I took a few pics yesterday of me in my full leather dress shirt and tie.) I will return to wearing leather gear more often once the weather cools off in October. For now, I limit myself to my biker vest. But I always wear boots, regardless.

For the next several blog posts, I will discuss several aspects of leather garments and life as a Leatherman. Leather is no big mystery, but there is an analogy: gay guys in leather to gay guys who ride on Pride floats are like bike cops to regular cops.

It’s funny, but many bike cops have told me that they scare (quite unintentionally) other cops. Same is true for gay guys into leather: the gay guys who aren’t into leather sometimes feel afraid. Yeah, that big bad Leatherman is gonna get you! (LOL!)

If you can not wait for this series of blog posts about leather to appear over the next few days/weeks, then just visit a new in-depth “Leather 101” Guide to Leather Gear on my website.

Meanwhile: BOO! (Just kiddin’) Have a great weekend!