There are two accessories that many guys who are into leather wear. The first item is a pair of gloves. The other is an arm band. If you are thinking of other items like whips, floggers, etc., I don’t describe them because I do not have them and never would consider having or using anything like that.

I will share my next snippets from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear:

Gloves are not worn much any more except perhaps when outside on a cold day, or when riding a motorcycle. But a man in full leather, including gloves, attracts a lot of attention.

Features to look for in gloves:

Length: You want gloves that are wrist-length. The wrist should also be elasticized. Avoid gloves that have a little “skirt” after the wrist which is sloppy looking. The look here is “police” – authoritative. That’s why you want the clean design. The back of the glove should either have three seams or a solid back. You want unlined gloves (for dexterity purposes).

The best fetish leather glove on the market is Damascus D302s. There are plenty of brands out there, but as your first glove purchase, buy these. Hands down, the best glove you can buy. They’ll cost you about US$35-$40. You can find them in any decent cop shop, or at Stompers Boots on-line.

Sizing: Gloves come in small-medium-large. Most men should get a medium, since the point is to keep them nice and tight.

What to Avoid: Don’t buy gloves with cut-off fingers, or “half-gloves.” They may be okay for a motorcycle, but not for fetish wear. You really don’t want “driving gloves”. Don’t buy lined gloves unless you are using them for practical purposes (e.g., riding a motorcycle in winter weather). Make sure the gloves feel like leather, not plastic. Buy quality. Unless there is a specific purpose, do not buy colored gloves. Buy black. Avoid zippers, snaps, etc. Solid leather gloves with no gadgets are best.

Arm Bands

Nowadays, you seldom see anyone with a leather arm band on. But an arm band still adds much to the leatherman image. Generally speaking, if you wear an arm band, it should be worn high and tight on either the left or right arm — not both. If you wear it on the left, it implies that you are a Top, and that you assert the active role in a sexual encounter. If you wear it on the right, it implies that you are a Bottom (or open to being dominated by a Top.)

An arm band should be two inches (2″) wide if you wear it on the left. It can be one inch (1″) if you wear it on the right, since you’re giving a signal that you’re in a weaker position. Arm bands should be solid black leather. While they make arm bands with colored piping or with metal attachments, they appear gaudy that way. Just plain black is best.

Check back tomorrow when I get into uniforms, which is a subset all to itself related to Leather Gear.

After getting leather chaps as my first leather gear investment, I wanted a leather shirt. This was back in the ’80s, before shopping via the Internet was possible.

I saw some photos of guys in leather cop shirts in some magazines, but couldn’t find a place to call to order one. Then I saw an ad in a local paper about a leather store operating at the DC Eagle. I went there — first time I got the willies and didn’t go in; second time, I was about to go in when some guy gave me a sneer an scared me off. Third time was the charm. I ran inside the bar on a slow Saturday afternoon, and up the three flights of stairs to the leather store. I found the shirt I wanted, just paid for it, and left.

When I got home, I tried it on and found that it didn’t fit! It was marked what I thought was my size, but it was too small. I screwed up my courage and went back a couple weeks later, made the exchange, and had my first short-sleeved leather shirt. I really liked it, and wore it a lot. A few years thereafter, once I had become more comfortable going into stores like that, I was measured and had a long-sleeved shirt made for me. Well, then, “the rest is history.” I have about a dozen leather shirts now, most of which still fit, and I still wear.

Here is the snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear with information about leather shirts:

Leather shirts come in a variety of styles, and nowadays, colors too. There are two basic varieties: leather cop-style shirts, and then “all the rest.”

Leather cop-style shirts have two pockets, shoulder epaulets and a snaps down the front. A high-quality leather shirt will have a zipper covered with a snap-fitted covering. Cheaper shirts may have a button closure. I don’t recommend a button closure for the same reason that I don’t recommend a button fly on leather jeans: the button holes stretch and after a few wearings, don’t remain buttoned for long, especially if engaging in any form of activity — from having sex to riding a motorcycle.

You can get leather shirts with long sleeves, short sleeves, or no sleeves. While I have all of these styles, I find that I wear short sleeves more often than others. Short-sleeve leather shirts are more comfortable and don’t get as hot. You can also show an armband (if you wear one). I wear long-sleeved leather shirts as an overshirt when I ride my motorcycle on days when it’s not cool, but not hot, either.

Other varieties of leather shirts may include a one-piece that you pull over your body and close the front with rawhide. These shirts usually hang funny and don’t look right, even on a well-built man. You may also find a leather dress shirt — constructed like a men’s dress shirt with one pocket and a dress collar, meant to be worn with a dress leather tie. There are some variations of leather shirts available, as well.

Features to look for in a leather shirt

The Fit: a well-made leather shirt will fit well, snugly around your chest and tuck in well at your waist. It should not be baggy around the shoulders or the stomach. It should define your shoulders and back. It should have only one seam down the middle of the back, though it may have added decorative seams on the right and left third of the back of the shirt. If it has seams on each side, then that is an indicator of piecemeal construction that is of poor quality.

Style: Leather shirts come in basic black, which is recommended if you will have only one leather shirt. You can also get leather shirts in almost any other color. If you do, I recommend darker colors like blue, olive, or brown. Shirts in lighter colors, like CHP tan, tend to accentuate one’s physical size and makes even thin guys look overweight. Red shirts make you stand out like a stop sign, and seldom look good on anyone but a website’s model.

You can also get piping (small strips of leather) on a leather shirt. Piping runs along the pockets, epaulets, and sometimes across the shoulders or down the sides. This is a purely personal choice. Just don’t go overboard. If you choose to have piping added to your shirt, keep it simple: pockets and epaulets only, and keep it all the same color.

I would not say that a leather shirt is “essential,” but it completes the look. And speaking as a biker, I find leather shirts to be useful when I ride my Harley. They provide comfort, warmth, and look good with biker leathers such as breeches or leather jeans. I wear my leather shirts often in fall, winter, and spring, just around the house and as I go about activities in my community.

Check back tomorrow for the next installment on leather gear: what I call “other stuff,” such as gloves.

Leather jeans, pants, and breeches are numerous in my leather gear inventory. I wear them often. After a vest and chaps, leather for my legs was something I had always wanted to try out, and when I got my first custom pair of leather jeans, I wore them so much that they actually wore out, so I got more over the years.

Here’s today’s snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear on Leather Jeans, Pants, and Breeches:

Leather pants are a good idea if indeed you will wear leather more than once-a-year at a weekend leather event. (If you will wear leather only once a year, it’s not worth spending the money on it. Leather is a serious investment, and should be worn more regularly for enjoyment as well as to get a return on your investment.)

The differences among leather pants, jeans, and breeches: Leather pants are cut like regular men’s slacks. They usually have a straight leg, snap or zipper fly, and pockets. Leather jeans are pretty much the same, but are cut in a style like denim blue jeans. There may be rivets at stress points like you find on denim jeans. They always have pockets, and have straight legs.

Leather breeches are designed to fit tightly on the man wearing them. The legs usually are cut shorter than leather jeans, because they are made to be worn inside boots and not go so far down as to rub against the ankle bone. The legs are tapered and often have a zipped closure to ensure they remain snug and low on the legs. Don’t even think about wearing breeches and short boots, combat boots, or even worse, shoes or sneakers. Breeches are made to be worn inside tall black patrol-style or equestrian boots. Breeches usually have four pockets, plus sometimes a “billy pocket” (designed for a cop’s “billy club” but leather fetishists often use to carry cigars.) They also may have flares (sometimes called baloons) on the sides of the legs. What’s the deal about flares? Breeches originated from being worn while riding a horse. Ample room around the hips and legs was needed in old-style, wool breeches, so a flare was created on the side of each leg to accommodate the comfort of a horse rider. These days, you don’t need flares on breeches to ride a horse — or even an iron horse. Leather breeches are not usually made with flares any more unless specifically requested.

Most guys wear leather jeans or pants over boots. If you want to wear leather jeans inside boots, you can do that by pulling the end of the jeans down, rolling a sock up over the end of the jeans, and then carefully pulling the boot on. If the boot shaft is too tight, the jeans will bunch up around the knees and look bad. If your boots are already tight on your legs and you still want to wear leather inside them, either buy boots with a wider calf width, or get leather breeches instead of leather pants.

Features to look for

The Fit: It is rare that off-the-shelf leather jeans or pants fit right. Often they are baggy at the legs, knees, or butt. It’s really best to have leather jeans made custom to your size, and to accommodate your height and the boots you will wear with them.

Style: Quality leather pants, jeans, or breeches will be made of one solid piece of leather on the front and the back. The seams will be straight on the inside and outside of the legs. There will not be additional seams at the knees. Seams there indicate piece-meal construction, a sure sign of poor quality. Good leather pants will also be made of top-grain leather, and will have a natural shine to them. Some leather pants may have a pebble-grain finish. As long as the pants themselves are top-grain leather, that’s okay. Good leather jeans will have double-stitching at all stress points — side seams, waist, and around the fly. Quality leather pants, jeans, or breeches are usually lined from the waist to the knee. This makes them more comfortable to wear as well as easier to put on. Some leather pants are called “naked leather” meaning that the leather that composes them are tanned without the use of harsh chemicals. I have both types of leather pants (regular and naked) and find them both enjoyable.

Leather breeches may also have an extra layer of leather on the inside of both legs, and across the butt. This style is a hold-over from horseback riding, as well. However, these added layers of leather can make the breeches more comfortable if they are worn while riding a motorcycle on a long ride.

Pockets on leather pants or jeans is purely a personal choice. Many “five-pocket leather jeans” are styled like denim jeans, including a coin pocket which some guys use to hold a cigarette lighter.

Stripes and Piping: It is very common to find or be offered a colored stripe or colored piping (small strips of leather) on the side seams of leather jeans or breeches. I have been asked if the colors of the stripes have anything to do with the hanky code colors. For example, red means fisting and white means j/o. The color of stripes on leather gear has nothing to do with hanky code colors. I have reflective stripes on my LAPD Leather Breeches and some other leather jeans and chaps with piping or stripes of other colors. I just like how the gear looks that way. Get what you want. Stripes make the gear interesting but do not mean anything else.

What to avoid: Most leather pants, jeans, or breeches come with a snap fly. Usually this works fine, but if you may be wearing them while riding a motorcycle, you may find paying an extra US$25 for a zipper fly to be better. A zipper blocks the wind better and isn’t as likely for the fly to pop open when you don’t want it to. Don’t get a button fly. The buttons holes will enlarge with use and after just a few times wearing them, the buttons may pop open just with normal activities, like getting up from a seated position or throwing your leg over a motorcycle saddle. Unless you want your fly to pop open unannounced, get snaps or a zipper.

If you’re serious about leather, and want to enjoy a comfortable leather lifestyle, whether you ride a motorcycle or not, get yourself some leather jeans, to start. You’ll enjoy them. If you want to wear leather with tall boots, then go for breeches. If you want to go out on the town with a date in leather, then leather pants will fit the bill. In all cases, have fun!

Check back tomorrow for information about leather shirts.

Yes Sir, that’s the look for the Leatherman. And I can tell that there is a lot of interest in this style of cap since the page about it on my website continues to rank as among the most viewed of all of my leather gear. Here is my snippet about this cap on my Complete Guide to Leather Gear:

If you have a nice head of hair without a bald spot, cut short and masculine, you probably don’t need a hat. The tough leatherman’s look, however, comes together with a full leather cap. Many Leathermen choose to wear a Muir Cap, as shown in this photo and on my website. Sometimes called a “biker’s hat,” the style goes back to the tough biker appearance of the 1950s. Leatherman’s caps made by the Muir Cap & Regalia Company, Ltd. are made of full leather.

Features to look for:

The fit: You want the hat to fit tightly but not be so tight as to give you a headache, and no so loose as to fall down over your eyes. Measure your head size by placing a flexible tape measure around the circumference of your head, one inch above your eyebrows and around the widest part of your head. Measure the circumference at least twice to be sure that you are getting an accurate measurement. Write down the measurement and use this chart to determine your hat size.

Style: A genuine Muir cap has a solid black shiny peak with silver mylar on the edge, a black plastic expansion strap across the front and the top, and buttons to hold the strap onto it. A silver metal expansion strap and silver buttons on the side add style and class. Personally, I replaced the top expansion strap with a silver chain. Note: there are a number of imitations of a Muir-style cap out there. It’s generally okay to buy an imitation — just make sure the cap is made of full leather. A number of imitators use plastic.

Quality: Make sure whatever cap you get is made of full leather, not plastic or fabric. Look to make sure that plastic parts are not substituted on key components, such as the top, brim, or bill.

What headwear not to wear with leather: A lot of guys like to wear ball caps. That’s fine when you’re out on the ballfield or in jeans and a t-shirt grillin’ burgers. But don’t wear a ballcap with full leather. It just doesn’t look right. Even ballcaps made of all leather. It just looks dorky. (The exception is a ballcap for a specific police agency when wearing a uniform of that agency. If that’s that agency’s spec, then wear it. If not, then don’t.) Some guys substitute a military “camo” BDU hat. Again, that just looks dumb unless you are dressed in military BDUs. I’ve even seem some guys try to pull off wearing a black cowboy hat with leather. It really hasn’t worked. Wear a cowboy hat with jeans and cowboy boots, not with leather. Go hatless if you don’t have a Leatherman’s cap.

Muir caps are not (necessarily) for the “old guard,” but it is mostly us older guys into leather who have and wear them. I think younger guys would look really hot in such a hat if they wore one.

Check back — this series on leather will continue with information about leather pants and shirts next.

A leather jacket is something many men have, and is an essential item for a Leatherman. The jacket provides warmth and protection, and a good one just looks cool. Here’s today’s snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear:

It is likely that you already have a leather jacket. But just make sure you have a good one. There are several types of leather jackets that are acceptable as “fetish”, but primarily these are jackets that are meant for motorcycle riders. Either true biker leathers or even racing leathers work well here. Also leather police jackets work fine.

Features to look for:

The fit: Now this part is quite important. Make sure the jacket fits you properly! You don’t want a big bulky piece of leather – You wind up looking fat. If you can afford custom, go for it. Otherwise try on several different jackets until you find the one that fits you well. It is best if there are lacings at the bottom sides of the jacket so you can adjust the fit.

Style: Pick the right style, and you can wear it over and over again. A standard motorcycle jacket is best. Wide lapels, button down collar. Choose one with a belt that is not sewn onto the jacket. (It should be a good wide belt). Epaulets are your own personal choice. Avoid gaudy hardware.

Quality: look at the label to ensure it is made of “top grain” leather rather than cowhide splits. If it doesn’t say “top grain,” be suspicious. Also, be suspicious of leather jackets made in China, Pakistan, or India. The quality of leather from these countries just isn’t there.

As a biker for more than 30 years, I have eight motorcycle jackets in my current Leather Gear Inventory, but have had others not shown that don’t fit me any more. I have given them to my partner who can enjoy them.

As it says above, the most important thing to ensure when you get a leather jacket is to make sure it fits right. Not only in the chest measurement, but around the middle. Some jackets come with a belt around the bottom. I usually remove a belt, because it tends to get in the way and if the jacket fits right, it is not necessary.

My favorite jackets are:

My Taylor’s Leatherwear Jacket, which is designed for cops. The jacket allows a lot of maneuverability (arm movement), has a lining that can be removed in warmer weather, and is exceptionally durable.

Another favorite is my “Motocross” Jacket that was made by Mr. S of San Francisco. It fits very well, is warm and durable, and has a quilted lining sewn into it (not removable).

If you are looking for a jacket to wear to a leather bar, you should not wear an expensive, custom-tailored jacket. It could be stolen if you take it off (even if a coat check is offered.) I have a “bikers jacket” with a bunch of gaudy studs but still made of top-grain leather. I have had it for a long time. It still fits and has no patches on it. I wear it on the rare occasions I go to a leather bar when it’s cold. Because of the gaudy studs, nobody would want to steal it, yet it’s different enough that it’s easy to recognize in a pile of gear when it’s time to leave.

Beware of cheap jackets offered by websites that cater to straight bikers. Those jackets are usually made from cowhide splits, not top grain leather, and the leather usually comes from a country where the quality is poor. You will wear a jacket for a long time: get quality. It doesn’t have to cost a fortune, but should be made well, fit well, and look good on you.

The next musing will be about the very popular and often sought “Muir Cap”, exceptionally popular with Leathermen.

Besides chaps, a vest is the next most important piece of leather gear to have. Vests are versatile, simple, and add an enhancement for the Leatherman’s overall visual image.

Here is the snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear about vests:

A good leather vest is a fundamental leather item that you should own. There are plenty of styles to choose from, but your best bet here is to get a leather “bar” vest. However, if your figure is more “bearish” like mine, you may do better with a “biker” vest. If you join a club, a biker vest is easier to put patches and run pins on than a bar vest (there’s more room.)

Features to look for:

Style: A leather bar vest is a simple, masculine design, meant to show your chest. A good bar vest will typically cost US$75-$100. You want to make sure the fit is tight. It should not hang over your chest, but rather to the sides of it.

Other Vests: A biker vest looks like a standard biker jacket without sleeves. Biker vests should hang over your shoulders and not pucker around the sides. Many are adjustable using side laces. If you want to show a little of your chest, consider getting a smaller vest but also vest extenders, which allow the vest to be open but still held across your front. You really don’t want to wear a biker vest snapped completely closed. It just doesn’t look right unless you’re actually on a motorcycle.

Over the years, I have seen many different types of vests. What works best for one person may be different for another guy. A bar vest without a shirt looks better on a man with a well-developed chest. Biker vests are usually always worn with a shirt. I wear mine over my long-sleeved leather shirt sometimes, too.

Generally, vests should be worn open, casually draped over the chest. However, if you wear a vest for a functional purpose such as to provide warmth while riding a motorcycle, make sure it fits you well so when you close it, it does not pucker around the arm openings. Alternatively, a vest that looks good across your chest but would look weird closed may be held together by vest extenders, which are small chains or thick leather strips that attach to snaps. I realized while writing this post that I do not have a good picture of one of my vests with extenders, so that’s next on my list to update.

Tomorrow’s post gets into jackets, the next essential for a Leatherman.

Anyone who likes leather, or is a biker, or who just wants something to add some warmth and protection for his legs needs a pair of chaps.

Chaps are about the most practical leather item available, and useful for many purposes. Here is the section from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear about chaps:

Many guys who advise others about leather say that chaps should be your first major purchase. Chaps are the most versatile piece of leather you will own. They are great for wearing out to a leather bar, while riding on a motorcycle, and for sex. You can put them on and take them off quickly, and they stand up to a lot of punishment. Chaps show a serious interest in leather, and they convey that message to others.

A good pair of leather chaps will cost you $200 minimum. They will be fairly functional and usually have a snap front closure with rawhide strings in the back for adjustment. A great pair of chaps will probably run you about $400. “Great” chaps have pockets on the front, are made of thick top-grain leather, and are made custom to your size, so there is usually one solid band of leather across the back (instead of rawhide strings holding grommeted ends together) and a quality, adjustable closure on the front. Do NOT buy a $79-$99 pair of chaps. You’ll regret it. They’re paper thin, often made of cowhide splits (not top grain leather), and often are pieced rather than made of one solid hide. Cheap chaps are pretty much worthless.

Features to look for

The Fit: Go to a quality leather store and try on a pair or two. If you’re not sure what you’re doing, the salesperson will help you put them on. Wear the jeans you may wear with them so you get a proper fit. And let the leathermaker do alterations so they fit you right. (i.e. length and adjust the waistbelt if necessary). Minor alterations shouldn’t cost more than about $20-$30.

Weight/Thickness: The thicker the leather, the better. You want a heavy weight leather. It looks 100% better. And you don’t want cheap looking chaps. Leather that is in the range of 7 to 8 oz. is best.

Zipper Position: If you ride a motorcycle, you want the zipper on the outside (so it won’t scratch your tank). Otherwise, a zip on the inside is fine.

Chaps to Avoid: Don’t buy chaps made of anything except real leather. Chaps made of “pleather,” or other materials like “neoprene” may look good from a distance in a dark bar, but if a guy shows an interest in you and then feels the fake quality of what you have on your legs, he may back off quickly. If you’re serious about leather, then wear leather, not imitation by-products of the oil industry.

I mentioned in my “Going Custom” blog post that chaps were the first piece of leather gear I ever bought, and for good reason. Lots of guys who ride motorcycles wear them, so they are quite common in many circles. If you are getting into leather, chaps are an essential starter item. I learned that having chaps made to fit custom was best, because they looked good, did not pucker around the hips and thighs, had no annoying snaps on the leg openings, and had a quality closure. I also can attest that chaps are great for more private enjoyment of leather, as well. And another good thing to know about chaps is that they are very forgiving in that they are easily adjustable to change fitting should you gain weight as you age. A pair of chaps I got at age 25 still fit me now when I’m double that age and a bit larger than I was back then.

Chaps are so versatile and so enjoyable, I have seven pairs of chaps that I have acquired over time. To be honest, I still wear each pair (though not all at the same time LOL!). If you are interested in leather and you don’t have chaps yet, then have a friend measure you, go to a fetish leather store (or visit the store’s website), and order yourself a pair made custom to your size. I’m sure you will enjoy them for many years to come.

Check back tomorrow: more on individual leather gear with some of my opinions thrown in, too.

Since custom leather gear is the way to go, the best place to get it is from a store that specializes in crafting it, fitting it correctly, and having sources of good skins. These days, many of the good leather crafters have websites to help you in deciding what you want and can facilitate placing an order electronically. However, using the Internet to buy custom gear has its challenges too. Read on for more.

Here is the snippet from my “Leather 101” page on my website about this topic:

If you are nervous about going into a leather fetish store, don’t worry about it. These shops are in business to sell leather. I remember the first time I went into one of those stores (in San Francisco), my heart was beating a mile-a-minute. However, I soon got over my fear of the unknown. The staff were helpful and friendly, but not pushy. They don’t want to scare you off. The best places to go are fetish leather shops or motorcycle leather shops. Go to a store that specifically sells leather, preferably one that makes its own products on premises. Look around, see what catches your eye, then ask questions and let someone help you.

Do not go to a motorcycle retailer like a Harley-Davidson dealer. While the majority of Harley-Davidson’s income is from sales of its licensed products and leather goods (not from selling the motorcycles themselves), H-D labeled leathers are vastly overpriced just for the name. You can get custom leather gear at lower prices from fetish leather stores. Also, don’t go to stores in the mall that sell some leather goods. These stores sell off-the-rack stuff for the masses, and are more “fashion” oriented than having anything worthy of a true Leatherman.

Despite being tempted by lower prices, DON’T buy leather gear from websites that cater to straight bikers. Most of the gear found on these websites is almost “one-size fits all” and looks like it. The gear hangs funny on everyone except the handsome model in a tough-looking pose. Pants, chaps, and long-sleeves of leather shirts are often too long or too short, requiring alteration anyway, and the leather is from a country where quality is doubtful. This is particularly true about International Male, Jamin’ Leather, and LeatherUp.com. Believe me, I have purchased leather from each of these on-line retailers, and have been very disappointed each time. (Once, each; never again!)

Don’t buy fetish leather via eBay for your first foray into leather gear. Remember, items on eBay belonged to someone else. Leather gear stretches to accommodate the (former) wearer’s body. Just because you are a size 34 and the eBay posting says the leather pants are a size 34, it does not mean they will fit you. They could be larger just from natural stretching. They could be (and often are) baggy in the seat and thighs. The problem with eBay is that seldom can you return something if it doesn’t fit right. Leather gear needs to fit right, or it’s not worth the investment. I’m not saying that you should never buy from eBay. Just know that you may not get something that fits well and you are stuck with an “as is” sale. Also, used gear is used gear. Don’t pay more than half of what the item new would cost. It’s not worth it (provided you don’t have a fetish for some other guy’s used gear. If the smell of used gear gets you off, then forget this warning).

However, you say, “I live far away from a store that specializes in crafting and selling fetish leather.” (Or I’ve heard, “I don’t want my wife/parents to find out about my fetish interests.”) “Can I use the Internet?” Well, you can, with care and a thoughtful plan.

The rest of this section is written about buying new leather gear from a reputable fetish leather merchant via the web. I have some of the stores that I have visited and ordered from listed here on my website.

People have asked me what fetish leather stores I recommend. While there are some really good stores around, in the past few years I have settled on 665Leather of West Hollywood, California, and Northbound Leather of Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Back in the day, I bought most of my custom leather gear from Mr. S. in San Francisco, and they still have good stuff, but it is very pricey. They also seem to be more interested in selling toys (that scare the bejeebers out of me!) than leather nowadays.

Tomorrow: I begin my gear-item by gear-item description of what to look for. Check back!

I have a lot of leather gear that I have acquired over the past 25 years or so. Like any other biker, I began to buy leather to use while riding my motorcycle. I bought my first leather gear items (chaps, jacket, and vest) off-the-rack. That was in the days before the Internet. I got these first items from a local motorcycle shop. None of that gear fit me all that well, but I didn’t know how to get a good fit, and the guys in the shop were not knowledgeable about fitting leather, either. The gear was sold in generic sizes of S-M-L-XL. That was that.

My first custom gear was a pair of chaps from “The Leathermaker” of Los Angeles, California. I saw an ad that he ran in a magazine and the chaps looked really hot. They had outside zippers and a custom fitted closure. I wrote (a letter) to him and received a measuring form back with some more really hot photos. I asked a friend to measure me, and I sent off my payment with the order form all filled out. About a month later, the chaps arrived. Man, I was in heaven! The fit was perfect, the look outstanding, and the style was unique.

This proved to me that going custom was what I needed to do. No more silly snaps on the bottom of the leg opening. No more zippers on the inside that would scratch the paint on my bike. No more adjustments like a belt buckle on the front closure.

After that, I had my first business trip to San Francisco. I built up the courage to go into a fetish leather store and after I found out that the guys in there were only interested in selling leather and not (doing anything else to me), I had them measure me and retain all of my measurements, even if this time I was only ordering a custom long-sleeved leather shirt. A few months later, I had them make me a pair of leather pants, since they had my measurements.

Man, I felt like I had arrived! I had my leather chaps, pants, and shirt, and felt more confident in myself as a person and no longer a leather novice. And I got noticed, too. Guys could tell that I had quality gear, so perhaps they thought that there might be a quality guy inside.

Though I wasn’t really one to go out to bars (I just never was a late-night kinda guy), I met some really interesting guys for dates when I was out in full leather on my motorcycle. I had fun exploring leather and getting more gear through the years. In fact, walking with “the leather contingent” in the March on Washington in 1993 was when and where I met my partner. The rest is history — never dated another guy. Nowadays, I still wear my custom gear when I ride my Harley; around and in the community during fall, winter, and spring — just because I like how it feels and I’m way beyond caring what other people think; and when my partner and I have a little fun. It has a lot of uses!

One word if you are just starting out: custom gear isn’t cheap, but because it will fit you right, you will be able to wear it for a long time. Consider it an investment. As such, if you are only going to wear leather once a year to a leather event, don’t bother with it. The once-a-year-in-leather dudes have that “deer-in-the-headlights” look and it’s obvious they are uncomfortable in it. In order to get a return on your investment, wear it often and proudly. I do.

Here is today’s snippet from my Complete Guide to Leather Gear.

Custom leathers are really the way to go. Not only will the leather fit you better, it looks better. You will not have unsightly snaps or zippers that are found on off-the-rack, cheaper leather goods, made to fit anyone of any size and height. Custom leather gear often is not much more expensive than off-the-rack, provided you are getting quality, top-grain leather. If you order the cheap stuff from the usual biker’s leather retailers, it will be obvious and gives a signal that perhaps you don’t want to give — that you’re cheap. Certain items like leather breeches or leather uniform shirts should always be custom made. Chaps should be custom, or at least altered to fit, else they will be baggy in the wrong places, too short, or too long.

Here’s how to do measurements for custom gear. There is a form on my website to help you record what you need to know. At a minimum, have your waist, inseam, thighs, chest, neck, and length of arms measured. There are more measurements that may be needed, so check out that form!

Have someone else do the measurements. Never measure yourself, because you just can’t get a tape correctly around yourself to get an accurate measurement, no matter how careful you think you can be.

Ensure the tape is pulled ‘snugly’. Do not allow ‘extra’ in the measurements around the parts of your body, because inevitably the measurement will not be accurate. Also, leather stretches naturally, so if the leather is tight when you first get it, it will accommodate by stretching as it breaks in during regular wear. Do not assume that the size you wear for a pair of jeans is the same for a pair of leather jeans, or a shirt size is the same for a leather shirt. Generally those bluejeans or shirt sizes are not your actual measurements.

Tomorrow: where to buy custom gear. Remember now, life is short: wear your boots and leather!