Readers of this blog know that I advocate wearing leather gear more regularly than only to certain events, parties, or once-a-year gatherings of The Great Leather Clan (e.g., MAL, IML, CLAW, etc. — and if you don’t know what these letters refer to, don’t worry about it.) I ought to, with all the leather gear I own.

Leather gear is an investment. Good quality gear — leather shirts, breeches, pants, vests, chaps — is not cheap. So what happens as a guy ages and his gear does not match his once-trim and slim waistline, and the circumferences of his thighs, tummy, chest, and arms?

Yeah, no matter how much of an active gym-going guy one is (or not), as a man ages, his metabolism changes too and thus his body’s ability to prevent fat from forming in areas that expand his body’s waistline, stomach, chest, thighs, and arms. These changes are most notable in the waist and stomach on most men.

Even with watching the diet and regular exercise, the once trim-and-slim body becomes more “full size” and leather jeans that once fit a size 32 waist do not fit any more. A medium-sized leather shirt cannot be closed over the tummy, or if it can, the snaps on the shirt pop open when the guy sits down.

I have been asked what I do and if I have my gear professionally altered to fit. I have also been asked (recently) if I could recommend how to have leather gear altered for other reasons, such as to have a zipper installed in the rear.

So here goes….

Section one — regular wear = having it conform to your body’s changes.

Leather is a very forgiving skin. It naturally stretches to conform to a guy’s body, and if he wears the same gear regularly and keeps it clean and conditioned, it will continue to conform to new body dimensions — a bit. Perhaps 1.5 inches (4cm) around the waist and an inch (2.5cm) or so around the tummy. Even the skin on the arms may stretch a little bit.

Thin single-layer leather will stretch a little. Double-banded or thick leather, such as used around a waistline or shirt cuffs & collar, will not likely stretch that much. It will somewhat — but only if you wear it regularly and move naturally, including sitting, standing, throwing the leg over the saddle of a motorcycle, or other (ahem) “active use” (remember, this IS a G-rated blog!)

I do not recommend attempting to stretch leather on garments at home. It doesn’t work, and when guys have tried it, they have all reported that the results have been awful with odd puckers, wrinkles, and stretched leather ruining the appearance of the gear.

Also, when leather is stretched, it causes fibers from which leather is composed to break. Those fibers are no longer living, so when stretched, they break, and when enough of those fibers break, it can cause tears and/or very bad pucker, wrinkles, folds, or other non-repairable damage. So, kids, “don’t try this at home.” Stretching leather using “leather stretching liquid” does NOT work.

So to sum up this section — wear your gear actively and regularly, keep it conditioned, and it will actually last longer.

Section 2 — what do you do when your gear just does not fit any more?

Stop and ask, “how old is this item? Have I worn it past its useful life?” Are there damaged threads, tears, broken snaps, or other areas of the item that indicate the gear is past its useful life? If an honest assessment reveals “yes” to these questions, then it’s time to toss it and replace it with an upgrade.

For example, my first pair of leather jeans were bought at a store in a shopping mall that catered to young, avant-garde people. I think those pants were made somewhere in Asia, but I do not remember. Anyway, they fit fine and I wore those jeans a lot and loved them. But when they were feeling too tight on my waist some eight years later, I did that self-assessment. I noticed torn threads that I had (tried to) repair; I had replaced the button closure more often that I wanted to admit; the leg openings had frayed when the hems fell out (I thought longer leather looked “cool” without realizing the damage being caused by dragging the back of the jeans legs on the floor behind my boots.)

Time to jettison those old leather jeans. By the time I had made that decision, I was working in a better job, making more money, and had overcome my fear of entering a leather store (like Mr. S in San Francisco) and had myself measured for a new pair of leather jeans that were made superbly. I wore those new leather jeans for two decades before I wore them out (literally… rubbed the skin on the butt so often while riding my Harley that one day, the leather on my left butt cheek tore when I got off my bike after a day-long ride.)

Anyway, to sum up — there are times when leather reaches the end of useful life, and becoming ill-fitting is a sign that perhaps it is time to retire them and upgrade to new well-made gear.

Section 3 — what do you do if your gear doesn’t fit but still has useful life?

Most guys in that situation sell that item via an on-line method or directly at a swap meet or leather-equivalent of a “yard sale.” Yep, some “MC” clubs actually host leather swap meets from time to time just for this purpose. Check around if such an activity may be happening where you are. If not, and the gear is really in good shape, then go ahead and try to sell it on-line. Just don’t expect the sale price to be anywhere near the price you paid for it. Used gear is used gear is used gear. It does not have much resale value (with a few exceptions, such as a Langlitz jacket.)

Section 4 — alterations and repair

Yes, it is possible to have leather altered and repaired. Holes and tears can be mended, as long as they are not in a highly visible and prominent place. Threads in seams that come loose can be fixed.

Hems can be re-hemmed, if you had real hems in the first place (some cheaper gear is delivered with very long legs and instructions “cut to length and glue hems” If you see that, RUN! Don’t get gear that is too long and has “cut-to-length-and-glue” instructions. That indicates that the seller really is not a leather crafter — only a retailer of merchandise (and usually from shady sources such as Pakistan.)

It is possible to have leather on a waist expanded, but only a leather tailor can tell you if that is possible.

For self-opening shirts (due to expanded tummy size), consider having an inside zipper installed in the shirt that will keep the shirt closed when you sit down while maintaining its snap-down outward appearance.

It is also possible to have a snap- or button-closure fly replaced with a zipper. That is particularly useful for guys who like to wear leather jeans or breeches while operating a motorcycle. I have sometimes had a button-closure fly open when I swung my leg over the saddle of my Harley. Not too good in mixed company. A zipper is better if the intended use is for actual active motorcycle riding.

And finally, yes, it is possible to have zippers added to a garment where not present before. Zipper-closed pockets, added rear zipper, etc., all can be sewn on and into the garment by a leather tailor.

Where do you find a leather tailor?

First, if your gear was made at a good-quality leather gear store where they have leather tailors on site, such as Mr. S., 665 Leather, or Northbound Leather, you can bring or send your gear back to them with requested alterations. Call them first to make sure they will do it and ask about pricing. Unfortunately, the cost of having leather garments altered is not cheap, and could be as much as half the cost of the item when it was new.

If returning the gear to the source of manufacture is not an option, then consider visiting a boot repair or luggage repair store. These kinds of stores have heavy-duty sewing machines and can do reasonable alterations — or they can advise if what you want done cannot be done. I have had leather jeans and shirts altered, zippers added, and repairs made by a guy in my local area who does boot and shoe repair. He does great work and is reasonable in his pricing (for what I have requested.)

For example, I have had button flies in leather jeans and breeches replaced with zippers. I have had inner zippers added to leather shirts to prevent the shirt’s cheap snaps from popping open when I sit astride my Harley. I haven’t asked him about installing a zipper in the rear — I’m not that kind of guy. However, most leather tailors have “heard it all” and if they want your business and what you are asking for is possible, they will do what you ask. (It’s sorta like “don’t ask/don’t tell” … ahem…)

Also, I had my boot repair guy sew up those awful pockets that puckered open on a pair of Langlitz Competition breeches that I bought and made a mistake to request “no pocket zippers” when they were made. Langlitz wanted $120 to add zippers on the pockets after-the-fact, claiming more involved time and expense with an after-the-fact repair. I declined — and just had my guy sew those useless pockets shut. $15-out-the-door and I’m happy.

Summary

Guys and their gear change over time. Guys expand, leather stretches. But only so much. Guys need to continue to work (real hard work) to maintain a reasonable weight and waistline, while they also should wear their leather gear more often than to a once-a-year strut-and-stroll event.

Life is short: wear your gear and get a good return on your investment.